There is a train, not more than a rough hour from Tokyo, that connects some of Japan’s most iconic sights and also runs along one of Japan’s most beautiful and best-known beaches.
The Enoshima Electric Railway runs from the Kamakura JR station to Fujisawa, past the resort island of Enoshima. The train features in anime, manga, films, and novels – most recently in the opening scene of the Slam Dunk anime.
But the little tram connects several other sights and is a lifeline for the Kamakura community. Read on to see what you can find out along the railway.
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History of the Enoshima Electric Railway
The Enoshima Electric Railway, formally Enoshima Dentetsu (usually abbreviated to Enoden), runs from the Kamakura JR station to Fujisawa. It was founded in 1902 and was one of Japan’s first railways to electrify.
Kamakura is an ancient city, and connecting it to the JR lines in Fujisawa meant that the sea coast became accessible and opened up to tourism, quickly becoming the area’s dominant industry.
After the war, the sea coast of Sagami Bay became home to Japanese surfing, with long rolling gentle waves perfect for beginners, and to the Japanese movie industry, which appreciated the sunlight and the historic scenery of Kamakura.
The design of the train cars is intended to evoke a nostalgic image, with tourists – both Japanese and foreign – comprising the majority of travellers.
Scenic and Cultural Appeal
The Enoshima line runs through the old town of Kamakura, between houses so close to the tracks that the flowers of their gardens sometimes bow into the train windows.
It runs along the stunning shore of Sagami Bay, past the entrance to the causeway leading out to the Enoshima resort island, and bends north to the bustling city of Fujisawa, where there are connections to both JR and Odakyu train lines.
The Enoden train is anchored in Japanese pop culture, including worldwide phenomena like the Slam Dunk manga and anime. The opening scene shows the train crossing near Koshigoe Station, now crowded to the verge of overtourism with manga and anime fans. But it has been featured in several other anime, and there are also games featuring the train – even a full-scale driving simulator.
Route Overview
From the narrow streets of Kamakura, along the magnificent beach, to Enoshima with the Sea Candle observation tower and the secretive caves and shrines of the island interior, the Enoden runs northward through a pastoral landscape for the last third of the route, connecting to the JR and Odakyu trains in the city of Fujisawa.
The 10 km trip would be short in another country, but in Japan, they squeeze in 15 stations, which takes about 35 minutes – except in rush hour, when the flow of passengers frequently delays the trains. The train service runs five times per hour during peak periods (such as school hours) and four trains per hour during regular periods. There are only two or three services per hour in the early morning and evening.
The trains do not have more than three cars each either, so even if they add an extra car during rush hour on public holidays, it is no match for the number of tourists who want to see the sights.
Very few passengers ride the entire distance, so the train becomes considerably less crowded as it leaves Enoshima and heads towards Fujisawa. The locals only ride two or three stations, as a rule.
Attractions Along the Line
The first sight of the stops along the Enoshima Dentetsu Line is its namesake, Enoshima Island. The island is visible from the entire seashore stretch of the train, dominated by the Sea Candle observatory tower and lighthouse.
The Sea Candle sits in the middle of the Samuel Cocking Garden, a botanical garden in 19th-century style and named for the merchant who purchased the island and started to develop it into a holiday destination.
The island has several famous temples and shrines, the latter often connected to the caves that riddle the island. As a proper holiday destination in Japan, it also has a hot spring bath.
The train arrives at Hase station just after Koshigoe station (with the Slam Dunk crossing). This is where you get off for Kotoku-in, the temple with the Great Buddha, and for Hase-Dera, one of the most magnificent temples in Kamakura, with a beautiful garden and sea views.
After Hase, the Enoshima train enters Kamakura proper, passing narrow streets and tight crossings on its way to Kamakura Station. The street between the station and Tsurugaoka Hachimangu is full of small restaurants selling street food.
The shrine is one of the mightiest shrines to the God of War in Japan and was erected by Minamoto Yoritomo, the first shogun (who also made Kamakura his capital).
Where to Take Photos of Enoshima Electric Railway
Kamakura is a holiday photographer’s dream, abounding in very Japanese views as well as featuring great light – in the right season.
Seasonal Photos
To take photos that are more than proof you went there, start with the season. The summer air in Japan is hazy, with frequent rain and typhoons. Fall (from the beginning of October), winter, and Spring (until mid-May) are the best seasons and may even offer views of Mt Fuji.
Autumn offers stunning fall colours, and around the end of March, sakura flowers – although Kamakura, an old city full of temples, has plenty of ume trees that also flower in February.
Koshigoe Crossing
If you want to take photos of Koshigoe Crossing, I suggest grabbing one of the earlier trains on the daily timetable and heading first off for the Koshigoe Crossing.
The crossing can become so crowded that cars can hardly make their way out onto the main street for all the tourists. The earlier you are there, the less crowded it will be.
Kamakura
That goes for Kamakura, in general, as well. The many temples and shrines open at sunrise (usually normalized to 9 am) and close at sunset. To avoid crowds, be as early as you can. The light is better closer to sunrise as well.
Hase to Kamakura Station
The same does not apply to the Enoshima Electric Railway track stretch between Hase and Kamakura Station. Here, wandering the small streets will provide surprise views of the train as it passes, providing great atmospheric photos, especially during the main flower seasons and when fall colours the trees along the route.
Photo Etiquette
But remember, you are taking photos in and around people’s homes. Trespassing is a crime in Japan, but some common sense goes a long way. Do not enter people’s property or take photos of people without permission (especially Buddhist priests and ladies in kimono). Also, don’t take photos of graveyards (unless you want to invite the ghosts to come home with you).
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What Riding the Enoshima Electric Railway is Like
The Kamakura locals – especially school children – use the Enoden to get around. Early in the morning, you are likely to be regarded with friendly gazes, as the locals in the Japanese way will not bother you. If you want to strike up a conversation, they will respond in a friendly manner, but do not expect to get anywhere without more than beginner Japanese.
The locals stop using the train around lunch, except for school children who use it to get home from school in the afternoon.
As the day passes, especially during holidays (both in Japan and China, since Kamakura is a popular destination for Chinese tourists), the Enoshima train will gradually get more crowded. Around dinner time, it is crowded to bursting and beyond, with most people on the train being tourists.
At all hours, the Enoden line is a different experience, not quite a city tram and not quite a commuter train, and with magnificent views.
Tips for Riding the Enoden
The Enoshima Electric Railway offers a nostalgic ride along Japan’s coast, but a little planning goes a long way. Here’s what you need to know—from accessing the railway from Tokyo to finding the best value passes, sightseeing, and even accessibility tips.
How to Get to the Enoshima Electric Railway from Tokyo
The Enoshima Dentetsu Line connects to the JR trains at Fujisawa and Kamakura, the endpoints of the line. At Fujisawa, the Enoshima Electric Railway also connects to the Odakyu line.
The JR lines from Kamakura and Fujisawa connect to central Tokyo, but the train that runs to Fujisawa is the Shonan Shinjuku Line, passing Shinjuku and Ikebukuro on the western side of Tokyo. The line from Kamakura is the Tokyo Ueno Line, which passes Tokyo on the eastern side.
Both lines take approximately 60 minutes to central Tokyo and pass Yokohama on the way.
The Odakyu line terminus is in Shinjuku, and you have to change there to connect to JR and the Tokyo Metro subway lines.
There is also a third connection to the Shonan Monorail in Enoshima, but it is a little bit of a walk from the Shonan-Enoshima Monorail station to the Enoshima station.
When to Ride the Railway
The crowded times are when there are the most tourists; typically early morning is quiet, especially during school holidays.
Tickets and Passes
The Enoshima railway runs on a single track (but there are meeting tracks at some stations), so you will always enter and exit the trains on the left side, as seen in the direction of travel.
You pay as you enter the station using your Suica or Pasmo card (or mobile phone). You can also buy physical tickets in vending machines or manned stations, which is recommended if you have children between 6 and 12, as they only have to pay half price (children under six travel free).
Adults pay 260 yen from Kamakura to Enoshima, 310 yen to Fujisawa, and 200 yen from Kamakura to Hase. Japan Rail Passes are not valid on the Enoden, as it is not part of the JR network.
There are also some good value passes if you get on and off the train to do some sightseeing. You can get a Noriorikun pass for 800 yen, which allows you to get unlimited rides on the train for one day. Alternatively, the Kamakura Free Environment Bill gives you access to both buses and the train for one day for only 900 yen. That is a better value than you are likely to find in most other tourist destinations.
Accessibility
For wheelchair users, even if you have someone to help you, it may be better to ask the station staff for help. They will put out a ramp to help you board and ensure the train only leaves when you are safely on board. And meet you at your destination to make sure you get off safely.
Sightseeing Along the Railway
If you want to see more temples – and Kamakura has many – you can walk to and from the stations. To walk from Hase station to Kotoku-In, where the Great Buddha is located, takes about 10 minutes.
You can also use the extensive bus network in Kamakura, Enoshima, and Fujisawa. Prices are typically around 200 yen for a couple of kilometres (for instance, from Kamakura station to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu).
Using the Enoshima train to connect between the Kamakura temples and shrines is also an excellent way of filling your day sightseeing, for instance, taking the famous temples in the morning (when they will be less crowded), exploring Enoshima from lunch onward, and going back to Tokyo from Fujisawa.
Final Thoughts
When you return home, the mystery of Enoshima, the stunning beaches of Sagami Bay, and the temples and ancient houses of Kamakura are the things that will stay in your memory – tied together by the Enoden train.
If you have a little time to spare, Kamakura should be on the itinerary of any Tokyo visitor. And Enoden is the natural way to experience it. Do not miss this train during your visit to Japan.
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Wisterian Watertree has lived in Japan for more than 15 years, and traveled the country from the southern tip of Okinawa to the northern edge of Hokkaido with his three children. Enjoying every minute of it, even the tantrums and hours spent looking for lost mittens in the snow.
Now he writes books dedicated to help others get the best out of Japan.