Your sumo tournament tickets are confirmed, the date’s marked on your calendar, and now the real question is – what happens on the day? This may be your first time heading to Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo’s national sumo arena, and you want a smooth experience.
The matches are only part of what makes a sumo day special, but unless someone walks you through it, it’s easy to miss a lot. From navigating the arena’s entrance gates and finding your seat, to knowing when to show up, where to grab lunch, and how the flow of the day actually works, there are details that can make or break your experience. And since you can’t buy tickets at the door, most people only get one chance to do it right.
We remember what that felt like – trying to find the entrance, excited but unsure what we were walking into.
This guide is everything we wish we’d known before stepping inside Ryogoku Kokugikan for the first time. It covers the things that don’t come printed on your ticket: how early to arrive, where to eat (inside or nearby), how long to stay and what else is worth doing while you’re there.
Click here to check out and purchase our 70-page First-Timers Guide to Watching a Sumo Tournament – everything you need to know to plan your day and make the most of your sumo tournament experience!
With a bit of planning, you won’t just be a spectator – you’ll actually understand what you’re watching and know how to make the most of your time in the arena.
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The History of Ryogoku Kokugikan
Sumo has deep roots in Tokyo’s Ryogoku district, where tournaments were once held outdoors beside Ekō-in Temple. In 1909, the first Ryogoku Kokugikan was built—Japan’s first indoor arena for sumo. With seating for 13,000, it gave the sport a new level of visibility and comfort for spectators. Over time, it became a symbol of sumo’s growing popularity.
The original building faced repeated setbacks. It was damaged by fire in 1917, rocked by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, and finally shut down after World War II when it was used by the military and then destroyed by air raids. During the postwar years, sumo tournaments moved to a new temporary venue—Kuramae Kokugikan—which served as the sport’s home until the 1980s.
In 1985, sumo returned to Ryogoku with the opening of the current Ryogoku Kokugikan. This modern arena, still in use today, seats over 11,000 and hosts three of the six annual grand tournaments.
Getting to Ryogoku Kokugikan
Ryogoku Kokugikan is located in Tokyo’s Sumida Ward, northeast of Tokyo Station. Notably, there are two train stations in Ryogoku, each operated by a different train operator. They are located 450m/0.3 mi apart. Use Google Maps to work out the specific trains you need to catch to get there from your starting location.
- The most direct route is to take the JR Sobu Line and get off at the JR Ryogoku Station. Use the West Exit—as soon as you walk out, you’ll see the arena just across the street. The main entrance is located on the south-west side of the building, facing the station, and it’s where you’ll find the iconic colourful banners lined up during tournament season.
- You can also reach the arena via the Toei Oedo Line. From Ryogoku Station (Oedo Line), take Exit A3, then walk about 5 minutes west past the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Just follow signs or map directions to Ryogoku Kokugikan—you’ll end up on the south-west side where the main entrance is located.
As you get closer to Ryogoku Kokugikan, you’ll spot a tall drum tower near the entrance and a striking row of tall, colourful flags lining the path. These flags, called nobori, are displayed on bamboo poles and feature the names of competing sumo wrestlers along with their sponsors. The drum tower is used at the beginning of the tournament each day, where they play drums on top of the tower to signal the commencement of the tournament.
There are also lots of other sumo attractions to explore in Ryogoku, so we recommend that you check out our DIY walking guide to Ryogoku, as exploring the area is a great option to spend the morning before entering the arena to watch the tournament.
Entering the Arena
If you’ve purchased your tickets online (directly, not through a tour), you’ll need to print them in advance at 7-Eleven Convenience Stores in Japan. Refer to your ticket confirmation screen and email for details. If you’re attending as part of a guided sumo tour, your guide will provide you with your ticket before you enter.
If you want to soak in the atmosphere outside the arena, it’s worth arriving at least an hour or two before you plan to enter the arena. The area around the southern entrance is busy on event days, with food stalls, souvenir stands, and fans gathering to spot arriving wrestlers. It’s a great time to explore, take photos, and pick up snacks or merchandise before heading inside. These stalls are usually closed by the time the tournament ends around 6 pm.
Upon entering, you will be provided with a printed map of the arena and a timetable sheet for the day, which includes details of each individual match, as well as mid-level Juryo and top-level Makuuchi competitors. Both of these documents are printed in English, making it easy for you to track the competition during the day.
Each wrestler only competes once per day during the tournament, with the wrestler who wins the most matches in their division becoming the winner of their tournament division.
The Japanese Sumo Association offers an official sumo app, available for download through the Apple App Store or Google Play Store. The app provides the latest info and wrestler information
Once you pass through the ticket gates, you’ll enter the main hall area. Just off to one side is the Sumo Museum, which is only accessible on tournament days with a valid ticket. It’s a small but worthwhile 20-minute stop to learn about the sport’s long history, famous wrestlers, and ceremonial traditions.
Please note: After your initial entry, you are only allowed to leave and re-enter the arena once, and only via the south gate before 5 pm. Plan accordingly.
Ryogoku Kokugikan Arena Amenities – At a Glance
Ryogoku Kokugikan is a modern stadium and has most of the usual amenities you would expect. Notably, there are no large screens to view the action. You can check out the detailed stadium map here.
For the January tournament during winter, the stadium is heated. For the May and September tournaments, it will be warmer, but fortunately outside the main summer heat. Ensure you bring appropriate clothing to suit the weather. You can bring a small bag or backpack for your personal items.
Below is a summary of the main arena amenities:
- Box and ringside seats are accessed from the lower floor, while Western-style chair seating is located on the upper floor.
- The upper floor is accessible by stairs, escalators or an elevator.
- Wheelchair-accessible toilets are only available in each corner of the lower floor.
- Attended wheelchair and stroller parking is available, with two designated areas on the lower floor and three on the upper floor.
- A cloakroom and coin lockers are available on the lower floor for storing coats, bags, and personal items.
- Modern toilet facilities are located throughout the arena, with baby change stations available on both floors.
Food and Drink at Ryogoku Kokugikan
Watching a sumo tournament can be an all-day experience, so it’s good to know there’s no shortage of food options inside Ryogoku Kokugikan. Throughout both levels of the arena, you’ll find stands selling snacks and hot meals, including long-time favourites like yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), which fans have enjoyed since the 1950s.
Other popular items include sushi, fried chicken, hot dogs, soft serve ice cream, and chanko nabe, the protein-rich stew traditionally eaten by sumo wrestlers. Smaller bowls of chanko nabe are available at the arena for around 300 yen.
Food stalls are located near all major entrances on both floors, and most accept cash or IC cards, such as Suica and Pasmo. It’s best to grab food earlier in the day, as vendors usually stop serving between 4:00 and 5:00 pm, just before the top-division matches begin.
If you’re looking for more variety, the Ryogoku area is full of options. The Edo Noren building next to JR Ryogoku Station has a great selection of sit-down restaurants, including ramen, okonomiyaki, monjayaki, soba, and sushi, centred around a sumo ring.
For a more authentic sumo meal experience, head to Chanko Kirishima, located a short walk from the arena. It’s run by a former sumo wrestler and serves traditional chanko nabe in several flavours like miso, soy, salt, and kimchi. Book ahead as it can get very busy on tournament days!
Sumo Merchandise and Souvenirs
If you’re planning to pick up a souvenir during your visit to a sumo tournament, Ryogoku Kokugikan has no shortage of options. Both floors of the arena feature stalls and shops selling a wide range of goods, from traditional keepsakes to playful, modern designs.
One of the most popular items among fans is the sumo fan towel. These colourful towels feature the names and images of current wrestlers, and many spectators wave them during matches to show their support. You’ll also find keychains, magnets, postcards, and stationery, featuring designs that range from classic calligraphy to cute cartoon versions of the wrestlers.
For something wearable, there are T-shirts and baseball caps featuring wrestler names and bold, distinctly Japanese graphics. These make great souvenirs or gifts and are often updated for each tournament.
Tournament Timetable
A sumo tournament day starts early, but the main action — the matches featuring professional-ranked wrestlers — begins later in the afternoon. If you’re mainly interested in watching the big names, rituals, and the highest-energy crowds, we recommend planning to enter the arena between 2-3 pm.
This timing ensures you’ll catch the intermediate level Juryo division matches, the dramatic ring entrance ceremonies, and all the Makuuchi (top division) bouts, including the final match of the day.
Here is the official afternoon tournament timetable as printed in the event program:
8:30 am – Doors Open
About 9.25 am – Preliminary bouts – lower divisions
About 2:15 pm – Juryo ring entrance ceremony
About 2:35 pm – Juryo division matches
About 3.40 pm – Makuuchi ring entrance ceremony
About 3:50 pm – Yokozuna ring entrance ceremony (if a yokozuna is competing)
About 4:05 pm – Makuuchi division matches
About 6:00 pm – Yumitori-shiki (bow-twirling ceremony to close the day). On the final day there will also be trophy presentations.
If you’re attending during the final few days of the 15-day tournament, energy levels can be especially high as the leading wrestlers emerge and championship outcomes start to take shape. Sometimes, the eventual winner is already clear before the final day, which only adds to the excitement as fans rally behind the top contenders.
Final Thoughts
Attending a sumo tournament at Ryogoku Kokugikan is more than just watching a sport. It’s a chance to experience a tradition that has been part of Japanese culture for centuries. With a bit of preparation, your visit can be smooth, enjoyable, and full of memorable moments — from the colourful flags and food stalls outside to the ceremonies and matches inside the arena.
Whether you’re going for the competition, the cultural atmosphere, or just to see something different, knowing what to expect makes a big difference. Arrive early, take your time exploring, and enjoy everything the day has to offer. And yes, grabbing a yakitori and a sumo-themed souvenir is all part of the fun.
Make sure to purchase our 70-page First-Timers Guide to Watching a Sumo Tournament. It includes how to plan your tournament day out, as well as information on how to purchase tickets, learn the basics of sumo ranks, understand how tournaments work, and learn about sumo wrestling rules and traditions.
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Anne’s passion for travel began when she was seven and moved with her family to Kenya. By age 20, she was solo backpacking across Europe.
Her early love of aircraft led her to become an aerospace engineer, and in 2009, she started the Pretraveller blog to share her travel knowledge.
She now works full time as an engineer and runs the blog with Tony in her spare time.
